Once the aarti had finished, local women gathered around the group of men playing music and chanting to dance freely together.īack at our hostel at around 7pm we then had a communal dinner in the hostel cafe, for free something they offer every Tuesday night and was a lovely gesture as well as a great way to get everyone together. It was incredible how many people had come to watch and partake, and the flames and smoke from the ritual were beautiful against the night sky. There was chanting and music throughout, with some locals singing along and me swaying on the concrete step to the now-familiar beat of the chants.

We watched, as we progressively became more and more surrounded by locals and tourists crowding on the steps, as they each circled their silver trays atop with fire in a choreographed movement of worship. We arrived at around 5:30pm and took a seat on the steps leading down to the river where men were lined up in robes with tables in front of them. We therefore headed down to Triveni Ghat – everyone else by rickshaw but me on the back of the hostel motorbike as I would struggle to walk along the narrow streets that were inaccessible to rickshaws) – as it is a popular spot for the sacred ritual of aarti at sundown. The sacred Ganga river originates in the mountains but passes through many pilgrimage destinations, with the Ganga (or the Ganges) being a religious icon in Hindu belief systems and the source of much spiritualism in India. Rishikesh is surrounded by mountains and situated on the banks of the River Ganga. I think I did quite well to get it down from 250 rupees to 150 rupees but, still, I’m pretty sure typical tourist tax was added.Īrriving at just before 4pm to lovely, friendly and helpful staff at Live Free Hostel, I checked into my room and sat on the terrace before having some free chai and then heading out for the evening tour.

Fortunately I had two seats to myself so I could keep my leg elevated the entire time, but unfortunately I then had to negotiate with rickshaw drivers at Rishikesh bus station as I was staying at Live Free Hostel in the nearby town of Tapovan.

So I changed my plans after injuring my leg and having the joy of it being in a cast for 3 weeks, choosing to take a “luxury” a/c bus from Delhi to Rishikesh for 820 rupees (£10), leaving Kashmiri Gate bus depot at 9am and arriving into Rishikesh main bus station at 3pm.

Cafe shambala